Cy Rant: Do Nothing’s

Stoked and Broke – Do Nothing’s

This week we are preparing to push off for a 10 day tour of our backyard. A little staycation-odyssey if you will for our new film called “Stoked and Broke.” Tomorrow we’re making surfboard trailers that we’ll affix to our backpacks, made out of the bamboo from the backyard. Amidst the preparations, my mind has been trying to hone in on the message of the film. I’ve been thinking a lot about surfing and the effect its had on my place in society…

Before I started surfing I equated happiness with attaining goals- homework, tests, catching fish, penciling my height further upward on the door frame… And for a long time after I saddled surfing with goals too- going down the line, doing a lip bank, cutting back, hanging 5, 10, winning a trophy, slapping on a sponsor’s sticker… I cared about moving forward, charging up that next hill, placing my next flag. But as the years went by and high school came and went, this drive began to wain. Not just with surfing, but with life in general. Despite coming from a family of college professors, I never graduated from college.  Instead, I bought a van, put a bed in the back and got a gym pass for showering.  Maybe age just starts to wear you down, but it seems now like surfing had a lot to do with it. A few years ago, I was peering through the viewfinder my Bolex on the balcony of a retired couple’s 18th floor apartment, which towered over a popular beach break on Australia’s Gold Coast. I counted under my breath and methodically clicked the shutter of the camera, taking a time lapse of the scene below. In the azure water, hundreds of tiny figures on boards thrashed shoreward and paddled seaward/ thrashed shoreward/ paddled seaward. It began to look absurd, like the sound of a word when you say it fast 10 times. I think that’s when the epiphany came. Surfing is totally pointless. It’s the ultimate non-productive act- the biggest waste of time ever championed by modern man. But surfing made me feel better than anything I’d ever felt, while grabbing at goals consistently left me hungry and hollow. Now this is pretty radical thing for a world that depends on people basing their self-worth solely on their accumulation of things.

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