In this second installment of the series of the I did with Wayne Lynch for the Surfer’s Journal, I chose to focus on Wayne’s life now and how he’s applying some of the life lessons he shared in part one. A few months ago, Wayne suffered a heart attack which has left him considerably weaker than before. As of last April he’d only been in the water a few times and was dealing with his hindered abilities on a surfboard. While most pieces of documentary media look backwards and romanticize the glory days of an athlete’s career, I wanted to explore the challenges Wayne is facing today and show the grace and humility he’s cultivated through the not so glamorous experiences that come with illness and age.
If you missed the first installment, watch it here.