Sometimes, the waves just aren’t pumping, but being in the water still offers a good time. Jan Lopez Latussek headed out on the north coast of Spain with what he calls “three of Spain’s rising longboard surfers, Carlos Clavero, Ruben Fuente, and Norman Perdigó.” Here he shares some of what goes through his mind on a small day, along with a video of their recent session.
Sometimes it happens just like that. The conditions are far from being perfect. The swell direction is wrong, the wind is blowing sideways, but there´s something moving, something that makes you want to put on the wetsuit and jump in the water just to get your ears wet.
You paddle into the first wave not expecting much, but suddenly realize that something tunes in, something works. You just need to let go, and feel.
Surfing is like that sometimes, even though conditions are not perfect, you are at the right spot, at the right time, in the right balance. Everythings summs up to that. And that precise moment becomes a frame frozen in time, stuck in ones memory. That’s one of Surfings beauties, the moment when everything, even a day of small waves, comes together in a certain harmonious rhythm that makes it just another perfect day, a perfect memory of a fun session amongst friends.
To me, watching from the shore, those are the moments that make a session special, to see that despite the conditions, the surfers are able to enjoy and find their place, their pace, their rythm. Moments in which the communication between surfer, board and wave works without interruptions, fluídly. Moments where physics, work flawlesly. The inertia takes over, the momentum is set and surfing happens.
I love to watch, to record, to then take it back home and study the images I captured. Break them down into small bits and look at each movement, at each wave being surfed, study the rythm, the pace, the tempo. Find a music and construct a small piece of video. That´s what I love.