Subsistence Shredding

Captured during a boat trip on a remote island in the Indonesian archipelago, these kids were using old pieces of their homes to ride the inside waves in front of their small village. When we arrived twenty or so of the kids ran out to the reef and held out their boards. Some waved them in the air and while others held them to their chest and played air guitar on them. All of their boards were similar; some were made with doors, some with parts of walls and others with pieces of wood that looked to be sculpted just for the purpose of surfing. From shore it looked like they had no electricity or running water, just simple huts with wood sidings and thatched-roofs. The break in front was a flawless right-hand barrel peeling nearshore on a smooth reef. According to the crew the wave had only been discovered a couple months prior and the kids were watching on shore and cheering in amazement at surfers riding across their waves. Who knows where these guys will be at in a few years…

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