The ’04 Eddie

The year… 2004. The month…December. It was perfect. I remember hanging with Pete Santa Maria for a week and shooting perfect Pipeline Masters where I swam at in the channel for the first time. Backdoor, Off the Wall, Rocky Point, Rockpiles, it was all good… We went to Town where I celebrated my 21st birthday by getting drunk on tropical chick drinks and dancing with a 40 year old lesbian couple on an otherwise vacant dance floor. The next night while sleeping in Rob Machado’s lawn, I had a fit of nightmares… I was under fire on the battlefields of WWII with artillery fire booming all around me. I then awoke convinced there was a huge, endless earthquake… After a few sleepless hours, day broke and I looked over the Monstera plants to see 20 foot shore pound detonating on the beach mere feet from where I slept. The forecast had proven true and we laid claim to our spots on the far side of the bay and setup 16mm cameras and telephoto lenses…

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Camera Cyrus Sutton
Additional Footage Pete Santa Maria
Edit Erik Derman
Music Nella by Gnarlight